L’atelier de Mitzi Micalef, partenaire de la haute couture internationale depuis plus de trente ans
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Sa m\u00e8re Anna lui disait souvent\u00a0: \u00ab\u00a0Si t’avais gagn\u00e9 un centime pour chaque crayon utilis\u00e9 dans ta vie, tu serais riche aujourd’hui\u00a0!\u00a0\u00bb Mitzi Micalef, sa fille, est une femme petite et douce dont le regard vif d\u00e9gage un monde magique. Mitzi ne joue pas l’artiste, elle l’en est une.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Avec le Distretto Urbano del Commercio<\/strong>, nous avons rencontr\u00e9 la propri\u00e9taire de Mitzi Arte e Moda pour conna\u00eetre l’histoire de son entreprise.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n En entrant dans l’atelier situ\u00e9 sur la Via Quarenghi, vous \u00eates catapult\u00e9s dans un autre monde, qui \u00e9voque les grands th\u00e9\u00e2tres, les \u00e9toiles de la danse classique et les d\u00e9fil\u00e9s des plus grands cr\u00e9ateurs.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Elle a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 peindre d\u00e8s son enfance et n’a jamais cess\u00e9 : \u00ab\u00a0Je peins toute la journ\u00e9e, je m\u00e9lange les couleurs et j’essaie toujours de regarder au-del\u00e0 du visible\u00a0\u00bb.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n \u00ab\u00a0Peut-\u00eatre\u00a0\u00bb, nous dit-elle, \u00ab\u00a0c’est ce que fait un peintre : il voit des formes et des couleurs, il voit au-del\u00e0 des choses et parfois il r\u00eave. Par exemple, la nuit derni\u00e8re, j’ai r\u00eav\u00e9 d’une jupe avec des fleurs et ce matin je l’ai cr\u00e9\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Donner forme et mati\u00e8re \u00e0 ses r\u00eaves et en faire un m\u00e9tier qu’on aime pour toujours. C’est ce qu’on apprend dans l’histoire l\u00e9g\u00e8re et extraordinaire de Mitzi, qui n’a pas cess\u00e9 un seul jour de croire et de r\u00e9aliser le sien.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Apr\u00e8s avoir obtenu son dipl\u00f4me au lyc\u00e9e Fantoni de Bergame, elle s’inscrit \u00e0 l’Istituto Marangoni, une \u00e9cole de mode fond\u00e9e \u00e0 Milan en 1935 par le couturier Giulio Marangoni, o\u00f9 elle se consacre principalement \u00e0 la peinture sur tissu.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Aujourd’hui, l’Istituto Marangoni compte dix \u00e9coles dans huit villes du monde entier distribu\u00e9es sur trois continents diff\u00e9rents ; il est devenu un incontournable dans la promotion de la cr\u00e9ativit\u00e9 et est reconnu comme l’une des meilleures \u00e9coles de mode au monde.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Au seuil de ses trente ans, Mitzi sort de chez elle et se dirige vers la maison Gattinoni pour y passer un entretien : elle apporte avec elle quelques dessins, des bouts de tissu peints \u00e0 la main et une chute de tissu qui, selon elle, n’\u00e9tait pas tr\u00e8s bien r\u00e9ussie.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n \u00ab\u00a0Au bout de quinze jours, j’ai \u00e9t\u00e9 embauch\u00e9e et je travaillais pour lui. Figurez-vous qu’il avait aim\u00e9 surtout le tissu que je croyais \u00eatre le moins r\u00e9ussi\u00a0\u00bb, dit-elle en riant et elle nous avoue que depuis lors, elle garde ce carr\u00e9 de tissu comme porte-bonheur.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Mitzi nous parle de sa carri\u00e8re avec satisfaction mais aussi avec une grande modestie : elle ne parle jamais de son talent (qui nous semble extraordinaire) mais dit qu’elle doit tout \u00e0 son \u00e9ducation et \u00e0 sa patience.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n \u00ab\u00a0Il m’est arriv\u00e9 de me m\u00e9prendre ou de faire des erreurs. Mais \u00e0 ce moment-l\u00e0, soit vous pleurez, soit vous abandonnez, soit vous recommencez tout depuis le d\u00e9but. Dans mon cas, je suis de Bergame et pour moi, il n’y a que la derni\u00e8re option\u00a0\u00bb.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Autant de qualit\u00e9s qui lui ont permis de travailler avec les plus grands directeurs artistiques, en plus de Gattinoni avec qui elle travaillait d\u00e9j\u00e0, Balenciaga, Rocco Barocco ou encore Gianfranco Ferr\u00e9 – qui a fait d\u00e9filer Naomi Campbell dans une robe d\u00e9cor\u00e9e par Mitzi. Mais la plus grande \u00e9motion a \u00e9t\u00e9 de travailler sur une robe de ballet pour Carla Fracci, l’idole de sa m\u00e8re, \u00e9galement danseuse.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Sa m\u00e8re lui a donn\u00e9 le courage d’affronter chaque nouveau d\u00e9fi et elle l’a soutenue dans son projet d’ouvrir une boutique\u00a0: \u00ab\u00a0Vas-y sans crainte, ce sera difficile mais tu verras que tu y arriveras\u00a0\u00bb.<\/span><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Aujourd’hui, dans son bel atelier de la Via Quarenghi, o\u00f9 le costume de sc\u00e8ne de sa danseuse pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9e est accroch\u00e9 \u00e0 la vue de tous, Mitzi propose ses nouvelles cr\u00e9ations – toutes des pi\u00e8ces uniques – avec des tissus \u00e9l\u00e9gants d\u00e9cor\u00e9s de cieux \u00e9toil\u00e9s, de mers calmes, de paysages enneig\u00e9s, de visages et de fleurs.<\/span><\/p>\n
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